Meandering to Maraetai and Boys with Muscles... I mean, Buoys with Mussels

Where: Opposite Umupuia Marae to Maraetai.

Who: Shirley and Annette in Ciao

What to do on a Sunday afternoon with grey clouds and a northerly wind? We decided to take Ciao to a favourite paddling ground, Maraetai.

Starting at Umupuia marae, we planned to paddle against the wind while we had energy, then turn around after a while to enjoy a sail back - because sailing Ciao is fun!

Those clouds look ominous, but it is good to be on the water again!

All worked to plan on the way there. The wind, while strong, didn't hamper us too much as we hugged the coast and enjoyed being on the water again. After a few minutes of paddling, we saw two ski buoys, both covered in mussels. Buoys with mussels have appeal! We made a note to collect a few on our way back.

Wait there, mussels - we'll be back!

After lunch at Magazine Bay, we pushed on for the final stretch to Maraetai beach, looking forward to turning around and flying back to the car with the strong wind in our sails.

We turned. The wind stopped. Almost immediately.

Sigh. This seems to be a regular thing for us - orca arriving at a place the day after we paddle there, free time with terrible weather, wind changing direction as soon as we try to harness it. Never mind. The tide and a few gracious puffs from time to time were enough to stop us from having to use our paddles. Meander, we did.

View of Duder's Point through the sail

Returning to our two mussley buoys, we collected a few to cook up. (In Auckland waters, the limit is 25 each a day, with no size limit. We chose 28 between us and only went for big ones.)

Back to the beginning. See the mussels we harvested?

Driving home, we felt sun and wind-kissed. The paddle to Maraetai and back was about 8km and just the right mix of relaxation, exercise and enjoyment of a beautiful area.

Home time - mussel time!

After steaming them, we fried them up in butter with onion, garlic, lemon juice, ginger, sweet Thai chilli sauce and a bit of olive oil. Yum with chunks of bread!

YUM!

A very agreeable way to finish off the weekend and a trip that we are sure to do again.

What we did well:
1) found a great, relaxing trip to take the weather into account - until the wind died.
2) became great hunter-gatherers, enjoying a delicious feed from our efforts.

What I did exceptionally well: bought two pairs of water-sports sunglasses online, reduced to $2 each, including postage. Annette doesn't seem so convinced about their fabulousness, but I think they complete my 'serious kayaker' look with croc shoes and bright orange hat.

The epitome of style - kinda.

Remember for next time: bring a bag for the mussels. They went in my dry-bag for the trip home and it still smells.

Our route

Kayak Tiritiri Matangi - Island of Birds

Who: Shirley and Annette in Bluebell
When: Saturday, 23 August 2014

What a fabulous way to end winter, with a sunny day of paddling to the bird sanctuary of Tiritiri Matangi.

Te Haruhi Bay - our starting point

We set out on the water from Te Haruhi Bay in the Shakespear Regional Park at about 10am. Reading other trip reports, it seems like many people prefer to leave from Army Bay on the north of the peninsula, but this seemed closer and worked just fine for us. (Perhaps the launch site is closer to the carpark there - we had to carry the kayak about 50 metres to the water. Will remember to bring the trolley next time!)

The day was sunny but cool and there was a decent southerly wind. It was predicted to be about 15 knots with 1 metre swells. After having a good look, it didn't look so bad, and because we knew it was set to calm down during the day, we went for it.

The paddle took us about an hour and was not onerous. We saw a penguin in the distance and some cormorants closer to the island. Our orca are still eluding us.

Landed! Our starting point is to the left of Annette's head.

Pulling in at the largest beach, Hobbs beach, we set out to explore. Annette has been to the island a few times before, but this was my first time. I was not disappointed! A few kakariki swooped around the beach and the birdsong from the bush was almost deafening.

Starting off on the Wattle track, we were treated to a family of saddlebacks coming within touching distance. No fear. These birds are so used to people.

Time to explore!

Good place to pull the kayak up

The birds didn't pose but these kowhai did.

Top of the hill - Ridge Track

Lots of bellbirds, tui and stitchbirds, as well as the cheeky fantails, were all around. The song was stunning.

The historic lighthouse

After lunch at the lighthouse and a chat with the lady who oversees everything, we set off to look for takahe. No luck this time.

Returning to the kayak via the Kawerau track, two bellbirds dived between us and we also enjoyed seeing the more native, established forest. Some incredible pohutukawa!

Hobbs beach

We got back in the kayaks at about 2:45pm and meandered back to the mainland. Another hour and a bit later, with much calmer seas, we were back and almost sorry to be.

Heading home

An excellent way to spend a sunny day.

Must haves: water, camera, snacks sealed in containers. (Be extra vigilant to not pack rats because this island is predator free.)

More information on Tiritiri Matangi: http://www.tiritirimatangi.org.nz

Underwater cameras are a must. We now have one each.

Our route there and back again

Kayak Duder to Clevedon - sea to river, walking in embarrassing shoes and rain

Who: Shirley and Annette in Ciao
When: 27 October, 2013
(Written in August 2014, in retrospect)

Horrible weather and busy lives had stopped us from hitting the water for months, so this trip was going to happen, no matter what!

The weather was iffy - windy with the chance of rain, but no matter. We had wills. There was a way.

We'd kayaked the Wairoa River at Clevedon before, but wanted to round the peninsula at Duder Regional Park and enter the mouth to the Wairoa River, paddling to town.

For this, we needed two cars. We parked Annette's at the bridge at Clevedon, where we would end up, then drove up to where North Road meets Maraetai Coast Road, right at the sea. The plan was to sail down to Annette's car, then I would drive hers up to get mine, swap, bring mine down, get Ciao and her, drive back and pick up her car again. Complex? Well, we had it sorted in our minds.

All excited to get on the water - that water, far away!

The tide was low when we started, because we wanted to come in on the incoming tide. (The Wairoa River gets VERY low and VERY muddy if the tide is too low - we will save how we learned that for another post.) It was a bit of an effort to drag Ciao, about 30kg, across the mud to get to the water and we started paddling just after 9am.

It's a sailor's life!

A decent wind meant that we could put the sail up and fly around the peninsula. Nothing beats the feeling of racing across the water, sail full and line (that's the technical word for the rope tied to the sail. I had to Google it. Don't tell my sailor dad,) pulling your hand. Fabulous!

Rounding the point

We rounded the peninsula in record time, well aware of the people watching us from the hill. ("Yes, we are flying. Yes, we are fabulous.") It was about then that we both realised - Annette's car keys, the ones we needed for her car at the end of our trip, were in the glove box of my car. The one parked at the beginning of our trip, a 'fly-at-ridiculous-speed-across-the-water' distance away.

Dang.

There was no way we would be able to paddle back effectively against such a wind, so we pulled in to Duder's and resigned ourselves to having to walk back to the car. I drew the short straw, so got to walk while Annette kept guard over Ciao on the beach. (This is South Auckland, after all. Not the best idea to leave the boat unattended.)

Not having planned to walk today, my shoes were at home. I would like to add for the record here, that we do not think Crocs shoes are cool. Except for kayaking. They are great for kayaking! But not for public viewing or walking or admitting to owning at all. Well, having no shoes other than my dear Crocs meant that I had to do the walk of gravel and shame for 45 minutes each way to the car to get the keys. I will say no more. The memory is still painful.

After returning to the kayak and hearing Annette's woes of sunbathing, taking copious photos and boredom while waiting, (no, not sympathetic at all,) we finally got down to getting on the water again.

Annette's boredom photo 1

Annette's boredom photo 273

Just past the mouth of the river

Entering the Wairoa river, the scenery changes. It is wide and busy at the mouth. Many boats moor up-river, so a few were coming and going, including a Coastguard with a broken down boat in tow. I wasn't the only one having a rough day.

Rain is POURING down

We pulled in to some mangroves to have lunch and the skies opened. Not too heavy at first, but as we headed down-river, there was a downpour. At one point, I was blinking waterfalls. But we were outside and like water, right?

It was about 3pm when we finally got to the bridge, not long after seeing some Olympian looking kayaker racing past us. We pretended to be fit and unperturbed by the weather as he passed, of course.

After the rain

After the car back-and-forthing to get both cars and Ciao home, we got back to my place at about 4:30pm.

Despite the challenges, it was fun!

Must-haves: Both sets of car keys, raincoats, walking shoes for 'just in case'.

The route we took. The dotted lines are the walk.

Kayak Cockle Bay to Whitford - goodbye, summer holidays

Who: Shirley and Annette in Ciao
When: 3 February 2013

With school, (therefore, work,) set to start the next day for me, it was a perfect opportunity to get out for a day-trip. The estuary leading into Whitford remained unexplored and looked interesting on the map, so that's where we headed.

Parking at the beach at Cockle Bay, we quickly rounded the peninsula with a decent breeze filling the sail. It was good to see so many others on the water and around the shoreline, enjoying the sunshine.

On the other side, many boats were moored and we enjoyed some sailing with the wind for the fun of it.

Finding the branch of the estuary to lead to Whitford wasn't as easy as we had expected. We soon realised that the clear waterways on the map were muddled by mangroves in real life. Nevertheless, we found it without stress and set down among closing-in banks to explore further.

Island on the map? You mean that muddy mangrove section? This was not our most picturesque paddle, but who cared. It was outside and relaxing.

Paddling among mangroves

Mangroves - this might have been the island (?)

We explored a branch to the left that ended nowhere, then set back to go right, under the Whitford-Maraetai road and down Turanga creek.

Just before the bridge and on the right is quite a busy boat ramp. I suppose that if we had wanted a cafe experience in Whitford, that would have been a good place to get out, but instead, we kept going.

Due to the high tide, the bridge was very low for us - we realised this and removed the masts just in time!

Turanga creek is quaint, weaving between a park, then bush on the left bank and lifestyle properties on the right. We meandered down there for about twenty minutes before it ended at a golf course. A bit surreal for us to suddenly arrive at a green with golfers playing nearby.

We turned around and 'borrowed' the use of a bank at a farm to eat lunch at. Ciao decided it was time to go just before we did and we caught her starting to drift off as we went back to her. Nothing a quick wade and grab couldn't fix.

The tide had dropped significantly by the time we got back to the bridge. (Yes, we time these things well - more drifting for us!) We got chatting with an older couple, also kayaking. They were interested in Ciao and we, their paddles. We were told that they were Greenland paddles, modelled on those used by the Inuit and very light and effective. I had considered getting normal kayak paddles to replace Ciao's heavy wooden ones but knew they would look wrong. These Greenland paddles, however, look just the part.

Greenland Paddles from Google images - no copyright

With the estuary widening out again, we stopped off at the right bank before heading back to Cockle Bay. This area is known as a home for the NZ dotterel, one of the world's rarest birds, along with many other coastal wading birds. No idea if we saw the dotterel or not, but there were lots of birds and lots of mud when we put in to shore.

Tide way out as we pulled in near the bird colony

Watch out for the rare NZ dotterel - not sure what to look for though

Heading back to the car afterwards was fun. We managed to almost surf in with the wind in sail. A great day out with a good mix of sea, estuary and stream. While it was not as breath-takingly beautiful as some previous kayak locations, it was still lovely. I would recommend it as a good beginner's paddle.

Watch out for: low bridges and high masts
Look into: Greenland paddles

Our route. Pretty much the same way back, with a stop at the end of Potts / Clifton roads to see birds.

Kayak Tamaki Strait - Browns and Motuihe Islands

Who: Annette, Shirley and George, (Shirley's dad), in Ciao and Bluey
When: 29 December 2012

A sunny day with light winds, a beckoning sea and lots of Christmas dinners to work off - a perfect opportunity to take the boats out for the day.

We decided to Island hop, aiming to go to Browns, Motuihe and Waiheke. Setting out early from Eastern Beach, it was an easy thing to get started. Yay for carparks close to the water.

The tide was just turning to go out when we started, but we didn't really feel much advantage while at shore. We were in exploratory moods and I had just bought my waterproof camera, so today was as much about taking photos and going with the flow as actually getting anywhere.

Following the coastline from Eastern Beach. New camera working nicely!

Skirting the coast until we reached the headland of Musick Point, we then turned towards Browns. It wasn't the cruisiest paddle with the wind working against us. In Bluey, I loved riding the wake of the many boats that shared the water with us. Have mostly paddled in Ciao, it was a new experience to do so much on my own in Bluey, with such a light paddle.

Bluey and I take on the Strait

The Islands beckon

We arrived at Browns after about an hour of paddling, longer than it would usually take. We didn't want to round the island due to the wind and there were no suitable places to put in where we were, so we rafted together to eat our morning tea close to shore. The bobbing wasn't great for Annette's sea-legs and we decided to get back to work quickly for that reason.

Break time off Browns

Next stop, Motuihe. We were all a bit tired at this point and the wind was more than we had expected, so we spent another hour or so getting there.

Jelly arms at the beach

It was good to pull in to the beach and stand up. My arms, not used to paddling without a partner, were jellied! After lunch on the beach, including lots of scroggin and chocolate, it was time to explore. Motuihe has a DOC campground and a number of walks to explore the bush and remnants of settlements. With a history as a quarantine station for those with influenza, it was fascinating and quite sobering to visit the hilltop cemetery and read the inscriptions on the graves. So many young people.

Motuihe walk

Motuihe walk

We came from that-a-way

Motuihe walk

We didn't take too long on Motuihe. The idea of paddling on to Waiheke had been mooted long before - we were all tired and the wind was picking up. Time for home. My arms were still like jelly and I realised that I would not have the strength to safely paddle Bluey back. I swapped to Ciao, leaving my dad to be the solo paddler.

The return home was bittersweet. My dad had come for the sailing and isn't a keen paddler. Yet, he was now stuck in a kayak without a sail. Annette and I, on the other hand, FLEW back to shore with the wind filling the sail magnificently. It was so much fun - the first decent sail we've had in Ciao. So in between whoops of delight and a touch of terror, we were feeling sorry for my dad and attempting to stay as close to him in Bluey as possible. Not easy when you are almost taking off.

It was very low tide when we arrived back at Eastern Beach and, despite my dad paddling quite a different route to us on the way back, we arrived within minutes of each other. We were amazed at how he had managed to keep up.

Lots of wading with the boats through shallows later, we got to shore and realised that the paddle had taken a toll on my dad. Quite a somber ending to our adventure, with me taking him to the doctor on the way home. (All good at the end.)

What we did well:
1) Knew our limits and cut the adventure down, as well as swapping boats for me.
2) Sailing Ciao - what a rush!

What we learned:
1) My dad prefers to be a sailor, not a paddler.
2) The boats have different strengths. If we are to stay together when paddling, we need to find a way for Bluey to sail.
3) Activity is the best way to stave off seasickness for Annette. Bobbing in the ocean is not the best thing.

To figure out: How to sail a normal kayak? Watch this space...

Kayak Hoteo River - paddling under kowhai blossoms

Who: Shirley and Annette in Ciao
When: 29 September 2012

The Hoteo River, about an hour north of Auckland city and feeding into the Kaipara Harbour, was beckoning. The kowhai trees were in bloom and from a previous boat trip, Annette knew that the banks were lined with them.

We got on the water at about 9am after parking at a boat club, just to the left of the road after the bridge over the river. There is a boat ramp, but we found it easier to carry Ciao down the jetty and lower her in from there.

We had timed the tides right, coming in on the incoming tide to return on the outgoing. Today was all about relaxing and enjoying the kowhai blossoms with the occasional paddle dip in the water to feel like we were doing something.

The river is wide and fast flowing, with farmland on either side and the bush of Mt Auckland in the distance. After about half an hour, we came to the tributary we were looking for on the right. As soon as we entered it, it felt like we were in another world. Banks closed in and farmland disappeared behind native bush, especially kowhai. Birds were in full song and it was a treat to drift along and take it all in.

Kowhai trees

Like yellow confetti raining down on us

Obligatory arty shot

 

As the branch narrowed, we pulled in to a rather muddy bank for lunch. We chose the spot because it was the first place we could find with an easy bank to get on - it must have been the easiest access there because it was covered in sheep poo. Not the nicest place to sit!

Sheep poo bank. Not a long stop.

After lunch, a short paddle brought us to a pontoon and more evidence of sheep - a bloated, very dead one bobbing in the stream. I remembered my dad's exploits, throwing stones at a bloated cow and making it explode, but we thought better of it with the sheep. Tempting though.

There was not much left to paddle after the pontoon. The stream soon became a creek and the bush gave way to paddocks again. We went as far as we could and turned around, upsetting a family of paradise ducks who quacked and squawked and swam right in front of us for a few minutes. Finally they realised that turning to the side was the solution, since we couldn't go anywhere else.

Turning back

Pontoon - not much paddling after this point. See the dead sheep in the background?

Back at the pontoon, we played Huckleberry Finn and Tom Sawyer for a few minutes and Annette got her hand jammed between Ciao and the wood. Ouch.

Bliss

The tide had turned and it was time to drift back to the starting point. It was a muddy affair to get Ciao out of the water via the boat ramp, but very manageable.

View along the Hoteo, returning back to the start

Driving back to civilisation, we felt as if we'd been in an untouched land for a real escape. Fabulous.

Good shoes for the job. No other jobs though.

What we did well: Getting the season and tides just right for a relaxing drift under falling kowhai blossoms.

What we learned:
1) Sheep like easy access to water too.
2) Hands are not good buffers between boats and pontoons.

Regrets: Not throwing a stone and exploding that bloated sheep.

The route